Jessica McCormack: Piece by piece

‘Wing of Desire’ was the first jewel Jessica McCormack ever designed. Inspired by the winged headpiece worn by the Greek god Hermes, it’s a singular earring containing around 45 diamonds and weighing in at 3.96 carats. It sweeps up the wearer’s ear like a glittering, whizzing comet. A comet that costs $23,770.
 
When Rihanna tried to buy it, McCormack very nearly wouldn’t sell it to her. “It was the first piece of jewellery I’d ever made and I wanted to keep it.” So they made a deal. McCormack could borrow it if she ever wanted to do a retrospective collection of her work.
 
The Christchurch-born, London-based 31-year-old launched her fine diamond jewellery line just two and a half years ago. In that time, and with no formal training in jewellery design, she’s attracted a covetable fan base that includes Madonna, Cheryl Cole, French Vogue editor in chief Carine Roitfeld and, happily, a number of wealthy Russians.

McCormack’s work has appeared in Vogue, Harpers Bazaar, W magazine and the Financial Times. Vanity Fair declared her one of the top 50 most influential players in jewellery two years in a row. Recently, stylists have been making enquiries about borrowing pieces for their stars to wear at next year’s Oscars and BAFTAs.

This Tuesday McCormack finds out whether she’s won the Emerging Talent Award for Accessories at the British Fashion Awards, an event that “recognises the most influential people in fashion today”. Fellow nominees in other categories include Victoria Beckham, Erdem, Christopher Kane, and Christopher Bailey for Burberry. It’s a big deal, and it’s also the second year she’s been nominated, though she has no idea who by. “Honestly, last year I didn’t even know people knew I existed; I was shocked. Even this year, again, who nominated me?”